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[GMCnet] rear bearing cup/cone mismatch [message #235953] Sun, 12 January 2014 14:12 Go to next message
KB is currently offline  KB   United States
Messages: 1262
Registered: September 2009
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Senior Member
At the Coos Bay rally, one of the coaches had to have a spindle replaced.
I recall hearing that there was an issue with the new cup and cone they bought
not matching each other, despite having access to the parts list numbers.

Does anyone remember the specifics?

I'm trying to figure out if that could be why 3 of 4 wheels on our 23 have
so much play, despite all new bearings, etc.

thanks
Karen
1973 23'
1975 26'
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Karen 1975 26' San Jose, CA
Re: [GMCnet] rear bearing cup/cone mismatch [message #235979 is a reply to message #235953] Sun, 12 January 2014 17:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
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Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
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Karen,

There were two "teams" that worked on Eugene's coach a "get it apart team and a put it back together team" Gordon Seykora and I were
on the latter.

Bearing manufacturers now sell the bearings and cones separately in some cases. When we got all the replacement parts together we
found that the bearing and cone were from different manufacturers. I think it was the outer bearing but I'm not sure.

At any rate I noted to Gordon that being the anally retentive perfectionist that I am I didn't like the idea that bearing
manufacturers were selling bearings and cones separately (no I'm NOT smarter than the bearing manufacturers) and I DEFINETLY didn't
like the idea of mixing manufacturers.

He noted that it probably would be OK but since he had a matching set from the same manufacturer we'd use his.

He also wanted to set the bearing play by feel (I have done that MANY times) but this was not my coach so I followed the MM
procedure to tighten the bearings 25-30 ft lb with a torque wrench, back off 1/2 turn and then finger tighten the castle nut until
the cotter key can be installed. I also turned the hub after I torqued the castle nut and checked the torque again. When I was done
I checked the feel and it was fine; I asked Gordon to check the play and he agreed.

Were your bearings and cones all from the same manufacturer?

Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
 

-----Original Message-----
From: KB

At the Coos Bay rally, one of the coaches had to have a spindle replaced.
I recall hearing that there was an issue with the new cup and cone they bought
not matching each other, despite having access to the parts list numbers.

Does anyone remember the specifics?

I'm trying to figure out if that could be why 3 of 4 wheels on our 23 have
so much play, despite all new bearings, etc.

thanks
Karen
1973 23'
1975 26'

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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: [GMCnet] rear bearing cup/cone mismatch [message #236094 is a reply to message #235953] Mon, 13 January 2014 16:47 Go to previous messageGo to next message
KB is currently offline  KB   United States
Messages: 1262
Registered: September 2009
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Thanks Rob.

> Were your bearings and cones all from the same manufacturer?

No idea. I swapped out the bearings and cones probably 3 years ago,
and it's been mostly sitting since then.
I recall them as coming in separate packages, but didn't think to
check manufacturer info (apparently I'm not that anal retentive :-).

thanks
Karen
1973 23'
1975 26'





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Karen 1975 26' San Jose, CA
Re: [GMCnet] rear bearing cup/cone mismatch [message #236198 is a reply to message #235953] Wed, 15 January 2014 00:31 Go to previous message
John Heslinga   Canada
Messages: 632
Registered: February 2011
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Karma: 4
Senior Member
Karen:

I cannot say what your particular problem is and it is always so difficult to give accurate information as to what a problem is, without being able to actually diagnose the entire problem. However: Play means the bearing is too loose. Take it apart and check it. Most likley the bearing was not adjusted properly in the first place.

If the Bearing Cone and Race were incompatible there might be excessively strange bearing wear and damage on the outside or inside edges of the race, causing the looseness. The rollers should be evenly placing the load across both the inside and outside races.

A properly wearing race would (At worse) look slightly and evenly grey, pretty well centered in the race. The Rollers in the Cone should be pretty well undamaged, but at worse slightly grey) Replace them both if they look like that, but there is nothing to worry about how they are wearing. (Usually a very long time) (When replacing bearings , always replace both parts)

All shiny parts would likley indicate the bearings can be re-used.

Any Pitting, Rough Wearing, Rust, or such: means that there was something else wrong. Poor packing, grease, Water, Adjustment, etc.

Every 2 part bearing I've every replaced in my career has come in two separate packages and part numbers. There is a good reason for this: The race fits the outside diameters of the hubs for many applications and the Cone fits the spindle size for many other different applications. Having two parts increases the number of combinations that fewer part numbers will satisfy. I have also been supplied with different manufacturers parts and not had problems. (But I would prefer same manufacturer)

Wheel bearings should be adjusted such that there is as close to zero pre-load and zero slack. (A very slight (light) preload is OK)

If you look at the adjustment procedure you will note that the the bearing is actually torqued and rotated first. This ensures the grease (after being packed) is forced from the contact points of the rollers and races, and the cone is centered in the race.

Do not rotate the hub when the adjusting nut is then backed off, so that the cone stays centered and the rollers are still in contact with the races. The finger tight then creates the zero preload and zero slack. If the cotter key - Castellated nut(or lock plate) cannot be made to fit, the adjustment is tightened enough to make that happen. (Hence no looseness)(looseness causes pitting and shock damage)

By the way: Do you know how to Pack a bearing properly?

Best Regards


John and Cathie Heslinga 1974 Canyonlands 260 455, Manny tranny and 1 ton, 3:70 LS, Red Seal Journeyman, DTE, BEd. MEd. Edmonton, Alberta
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