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[GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349548] Tue, 22 October 2019 21:20 Go to next message
Gerard Hickey is currently offline  Gerard Hickey   United States
Messages: 53
Registered: June 2019
Karma: 1
Member
Good evening,

For the past couple of days I have been trying to release the bolt that
holds the belcrank to the frame and I have had no joy. This is starting
to drive me crazy.

I just went and bought a new air ratchet that claims that it can do up
to a 1000 ft-lbs of torque. I am like right... truth in advertising....
but it has to be better than the original cheap one that came with my
original compressor from about 15 years ago. I would be happy if I am
getting 700 ft-lbs out of it.

Well I have been hitting the bottom of the nut that is welded to the
frame with heat and squirting WD40 up there trying to lubricate the
threads. I can not get the bolt to budge one bit. The last time I heated
the nut I went for about 2 - 2.5 mins and then immediately went back to
the air ratchet trying to get it to free up. Do I need to heat it longer?

Does anyone have any good tips for getting this bolt freed up and
removed so that I can replace the belcrank?

This is the last bolt I have to do to finish all up replacement parts
for the steering and suspension. And then I will be so happy to have all
that work done.

Thanks.

--
Gerard Hickey / WTØF IRLP:3067/Echolink:529661
hickey@kinetic-compute.com DMR: 3102272
425-395-4554



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Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349549 is a reply to message #349548] Tue, 22 October 2019 21:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
Senior Member
Switch to a real penetrating oil, not WD-40. It's principal ingredient is
stoddard solvent, and some incidental components that are rust and
corrosion deterrents. There are an infinite number of effective penetrating
compounds out there, including some home brewed stuff. I personally use
Penatrex. It foams up and stays put, and it is quite effective. Spray cans,
expensive. Paraffin wax works quite well on heated stuff, you can literally
watch it wick into threads. But, time is your friend, here.
Impatience is your worst enemy.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Tue, Oct 22, 2019, 7:21 PM Gerard Hickey via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:

> Good evening,
>
> For the past couple of days I have been trying to release the bolt that
> holds the belcrank to the frame and I have had no joy. This is starting
> to drive me crazy.
>
> I just went and bought a new air ratchet that claims that it can do up
> to a 1000 ft-lbs of torque. I am like right... truth in advertising....
> but it has to be better than the original cheap one that came with my
> original compressor from about 15 years ago. I would be happy if I am
> getting 700 ft-lbs out of it.
>
> Well I have been hitting the bottom of the nut that is welded to the
> frame with heat and squirting WD40 up there trying to lubricate the
> threads. I can not get the bolt to budge one bit. The last time I heated
> the nut I went for about 2 - 2.5 mins and then immediately went back to
> the air ratchet trying to get it to free up. Do I need to heat it longer?
>
> Does anyone have any good tips for getting this bolt freed up and
> removed so that I can replace the belcrank?
>
> This is the last bolt I have to do to finish all up replacement parts
> for the steering and suspension. And then I will be so happy to have all
> that work done.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> Gerard Hickey / WTØF IRLP:3067/Echolink:529661
> hickey@kinetic-compute.com DMR: 3102272
> 425-395-4554
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349550 is a reply to message #349548] Tue, 22 October 2019 21:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
Senior Member
I am not sure what bolt / nut you are working on but WD-40 ain't going to do it. Applying heat with a good penetrating oil will usually help.

A good Penetrating oil and time should do it for you too. I usually soak the offending fastener once a day and after about 5 days it will let loose. I sometimes also use heat. I heat up the fastener and then shock cool it with penetrating oil until it cools and liquid will stay on it. Let it soak for a day and try it again.

What is s good penetrating oil? In order of preference and effectiveness:

1. a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF
2. Kroil - we order that stuff by the case
3. PB blaster
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
49. Water
50. WD-40


Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349551 is a reply to message #349548] Tue, 22 October 2019 21:43 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gerard Hickey is currently offline  Gerard Hickey   United States
Messages: 53
Registered: June 2019
Karma: 1
Member
I just had a crazy thought and wondered if anyone has tried this or
would recommend it.

Since I am replacing the belcrank, I am considering cutting out the two
rubber o-rings and then I should be able to wiggle the belcrank up just
a bit so that I can apply lubricant directly to the upper half of the
bolt. It looks like the "nut" goes the full length of the frame and I am
sure that it could take weeks of constant application to get anything to
go up the bolt through capillary action. Does that sound like a good
idea? Anyone know of a reason to not do this?

--
Gerard Hickey / WTØF IRLP:3067/Echolink:529661
hickey@kinetic-compute.com DMR: 3102272
425-395-4554

On 10/22/19 7:20 PM, Gerard Hickey via Gmclist wrote:
> Good evening,
>
> For the past couple of days I have been trying to release the bolt that
> holds the belcrank to the frame and I have had no joy. This is starting
> to drive me crazy.
>
> I just went and bought a new air ratchet that claims that it can do up
> to a 1000 ft-lbs of torque. I am like right... truth in advertising....
> but it has to be better than the original cheap one that came with my
> original compressor from about 15 years ago. I would be happy if I am
> getting 700 ft-lbs out of it.
>
> Well I have been hitting the bottom of the nut that is welded to the
> frame with heat and squirting WD40 up there trying to lubricate the
> threads. I can not get the bolt to budge one bit. The last time I heated
> the nut I went for about 2 - 2.5 mins and then immediately went back to
> the air ratchet trying to get it to free up. Do I need to heat it longer?
>
> Does anyone have any good tips for getting this bolt freed up and
> removed so that I can replace the belcrank?
>
> This is the last bolt I have to do to finish all up replacement parts
> for the steering and suspension. And then I will be so happy to have all
> that work done.
>
> Thanks.
>

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Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349552 is a reply to message #349549] Tue, 22 October 2019 21:48 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gerard Hickey is currently offline  Gerard Hickey   United States
Messages: 53
Registered: June 2019
Karma: 1
Member
OK. I can try to find something. Unfortunately, the other day the only
thing that I had to spray up was WD40. The can of Liquid Wrench is
mostly gone, but I have no way of spraying it from below on to the nut
and bolt. Well I am giving up for the night and will look tomorrow
before I come back out to the RV.

Thanks for the thoughts.

--
Gerard Hickey / WTØF IRLP:3067/Echolink:529661
hickey@kinetic-compute.com DMR: 3102272
425-395-4554

On 10/22/19 7:40 PM, James Hupy via Gmclist wrote:
> Switch to a real penetrating oil, not WD-40. It's principal ingredient is
> stoddard solvent, and some incidental components that are rust and
> corrosion deterrents. There are an infinite number of effective penetrating
> compounds out there, including some home brewed stuff. I personally use
> Penatrex. It foams up and stays put, and it is quite effective. Spray cans,
> expensive. Paraffin wax works quite well on heated stuff, you can literally
> watch it wick into threads. But, time is your friend, here.
> Impatience is your worst enemy.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>
> On Tue, Oct 22, 2019, 7:21 PM Gerard Hickey via Gmclist gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
>
>> Good evening,
>>
>> For the past couple of days I have been trying to release the bolt that
>> holds the belcrank to the frame and I have had no joy. This is starting
>> to drive me crazy.
>>
>> I just went and bought a new air ratchet that claims that it can do up
>> to a 1000 ft-lbs of torque. I am like right... truth in advertising....
>> but it has to be better than the original cheap one that came with my
>> original compressor from about 15 years ago. I would be happy if I am
>> getting 700 ft-lbs out of it.
>>
>> Well I have been hitting the bottom of the nut that is welded to the
>> frame with heat and squirting WD40 up there trying to lubricate the
>> threads. I can not get the bolt to budge one bit. The last time I heated
>> the nut I went for about 2 - 2.5 mins and then immediately went back to
>> the air ratchet trying to get it to free up. Do I need to heat it longer?
>>
>> Does anyone have any good tips for getting this bolt freed up and
>> removed so that I can replace the belcrank?
>>
>> This is the last bolt I have to do to finish all up replacement parts
>> for the steering and suspension. And then I will be so happy to have all
>> that work done.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> --
>> Gerard Hickey / WTØF IRLP:3067/Echolink:529661
>> hickey@kinetic-compute.com DMR: 3102272
>> 425-395-4554
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

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Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349555 is a reply to message #349552] Wed, 23 October 2019 06:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
C Boyd is currently offline  C Boyd   United States
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
Senior Member
Sir, I believe you are working on the relay lever. Possibly short bursts from a 1/2" air gun will work but you do need a 1/2" air line and 120 lb of air. I do have a1" gun and it works. A 3/4 drive socket with a pull handle and 4' extension bar might work if you can get the right combination of extensions and room after removing the Wheel and liner.

C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349556 is a reply to message #349551] Wed, 23 October 2019 08:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
Senior Member
Gerard Hickey wrote on Tue, 22 October 2019 22:43
I just had a crazy thought and wondered if anyone has tried this or would recommend it.

Since I am replacing the belcrank, I am considering cutting out the two rubber o-rings and then I should be able to wiggle the belcrank up just a bit so that I can apply lubricant directly to the upper half of the bolt. It looks like the "nut" goes the full length of the frame and I am sure that it could take weeks of constant application to get anything to go up the bolt through capillary action. Does that sound like a good idea? Anyone know of a reason to not do this?
--
Gerard Hickey
Gerard,

As it happens, I have had to be working with two of these recently and one required a lot of attention.

Inside the relay lever is a "spool". That spool is what is holding the tension in that bolt (cap screw) that you are trying to get loose. Until the tension in the fastener is released, the spool will not move at all and the likelihood that any penetrant would find its way in there is remote at best even with the O-rings removed.

My first try would be a 3/4 drive socket and breaker bar with a 4~5' pipe as a helper. That worked for me even when my real CP air wrench was not effective.

Of you have an oxy-acetylene torch (Most LP do not have a flame that is concentrated enough), try heating the lower end of the screw and when it is serious hot, have a pump oil can with ATF in it and squirt that in there. The heat will have crushed any scale in the threads and cooling it will suck the ATF into the area. If there are First Peoples local to you they may respond to this signal.

Then go back to the breaker bar and pipe.

Best of luck,

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349560 is a reply to message #349548] Wed, 23 October 2019 08:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JohnL455 is currently offline  JohnL455   United States
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
Senior Member
What if you loaded a grease gun with Kroil or similar and repeatedly "greased" the relay main zerk That would get penetrant to other side of the threads without cutting the rubber aa you suggested. Also I find most impact performance ratings "inflated" not unlike "peak music power" ratings on cheap car stereo gear.

John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349563 is a reply to message #349560] Wed, 23 October 2019 09:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Dave Stragand is currently offline  Dave Stragand   United States
Messages: 307
Registered: October 2017
Karma: 0
Senior Member
I'll probably get a bit of flak for bringing up this method, but it can
work. It's just not an elegant solution.

Get a 1" drive socket of the correct size, and a 1" drive breaker bar.
Buy an 8-foot piece of black iron steam pipe that will fit over the
breaker bar, and you have a crazy amount of leverage. If you put 200
pounds of force on the end of an 8' lever, that's 1600 ft-pounds of
torque. Slide that pipe back 2 feet on the breaker bar and you will
have 2000 ft-pounds of torque.

If you also buy a 1" to 3/4" adapter, or a 1" to 3/8" adapter, you can
reuse that breaker bar on other projects.

-Dave
1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh

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1978 Transmode (403) Pittsburgh, PA
Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349564 is a reply to message #349563] Wed, 23 October 2019 09:43 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jimk is currently offline  jimk   United States
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
Senior Member
Your sorted limited for space, but can be done with long breaker bar.
Use impact and run it both ways as it always help to break the rust.

On Wed, Oct 23, 2019 at 7:08 AM Dave Stragand via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:

> I'll probably get a bit of flak for bringing up this method, but it can
> work. It's just not an elegant solution.
>
> Get a 1" drive socket of the correct size, and a 1" drive breaker bar.
> Buy an 8-foot piece of black iron steam pipe that will fit over the
> breaker bar, and you have a crazy amount of leverage. If you put 200
> pounds of force on the end of an 8' lever, that's 1600 ft-pounds of
> torque. Slide that pipe back 2 feet on the breaker bar and you will
> have 2000 ft-pounds of torque.
>
> If you also buy a 1" to 3/4" adapter, or a 1" to 3/8" adapter, you can
> reuse that breaker bar on other projects.
>
> -Dave
> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349566 is a reply to message #349564] Wed, 23 October 2019 10:16 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
Senior Member
One word of caution applies here. When you have a 1" drive long handled
breaker bar, with a 4' "cheater" on the handle, you have an enormous amount
of leverage. Certainly enough to pull a poorly supported coach of of its
stands. Be sure, be very sure that you are out of harm's way here. That
coach falling on you will ruin your day for sure. Just a reminder. Work
safe out there.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Wed, Oct 23, 2019, 7:44 AM Jim Kanomata via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:

> Your sorted limited for space, but can be done with long breaker bar.
> Use impact and run it both ways as it always help to break the rust.
>
> On Wed, Oct 23, 2019 at 7:08 AM Dave Stragand via Gmclist gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
>
>> I'll probably get a bit of flak for bringing up this method, but it can
>> work. It's just not an elegant solution.
>>
>> Get a 1" drive socket of the correct size, and a 1" drive breaker bar.
>> Buy an 8-foot piece of black iron steam pipe that will fit over the
>> breaker bar, and you have a crazy amount of leverage. If you put 200
>> pounds of force on the end of an 8' lever, that's 1600 ft-pounds of
>> torque. Slide that pipe back 2 feet on the breaker bar and you will
>> have 2000 ft-pounds of torque.
>>
>> If you also buy a 1" to 3/4" adapter, or a 1" to 3/8" adapter, you can
>> reuse that breaker bar on other projects.
>>
>> -Dave
>> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> jimk@appliedairfilters.com
> http://www.appliedgmcrvparts.com
> 1-800-752-7502
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>
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Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349567 is a reply to message #349566] Wed, 23 October 2019 10:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mghamms is currently offline  mghamms   United States
Messages: 466
Registered: March 2016
Location: Ware, Massachusetts
Karma: 2
Senior Member
I'm not sure if you can or even if it will work in your situation but,
How about heating as hot as you can then melting a candle on the threads.
The wax should flow into the connection and lubricate it.
The wax will hold up under the heat unlike penetrating oil.


1977 Kingsley 455 as stock as it gets except lots of Ragusa parts
Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349573 is a reply to message #349549] Wed, 23 October 2019 11:35 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jessfarr is currently offline  jessfarr   United States
Messages: 100
Registered: August 2004
Karma: 1
Senior Member
that's a good reply, all the wd stuff is is water displacement and penatrex may be better than atf and acetone but i'm too cheap too know.

jofarr
Soddy daisy tn


----- Original Message -----
From: James Hupy via Gmclist
Reply-To:
To:
Cc: James Hupy
Sent: 10/22/2019 10:40:26 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank
________________________________________________________________________________

Switch to a real penetrating oil, not WD-40. It's principal ingredient is
stoddard solvent, and some incidental components that are rust and
corrosion deterrents. There are an infinite number of effective penetrating
compounds out there, including some home brewed stuff. I personally use
Penatrex. It foams up and stays put, and it is quite effective. Spray cans,
expensive. Paraffin wax works quite well on heated stuff, you can literally
watch it wick into threads. But, time is your friend, here.
Impatience is your worst enemy.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Tue, Oct 22, 2019, 7:21 PM Gerard Hickey via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:

> Good evening,
>
> For the past couple of days I have been trying to release the bolt that
> holds the belcrank to the frame and I have had no joy. This is starting
> to drive me crazy.
>
> I just went and bought a new air ratchet that claims that it can do up
> to a 1000 ft-lbs of torque. I am like right... truth in advertising....
> but it has to be better than the original cheap one that came with my
> original compressor from about 15 years ago. I would be happy if I am
> getting 700 ft-lbs out of it.
>
> Well I have been hitting the bottom of the nut that is welded to the
> frame with heat and squirting WD40 up there trying to lubricate the
> threads. I can not get the bolt to budge one bit. The last time I heated
> the nut I went for about 2 - 2.5 mins and then immediately went back to
> the air ratchet trying to get it to free up. Do I need to heat it longer?
>
> Does anyone have any good tips for getting this bolt freed up and
> removed so that I can replace the belcrank?
>
> This is the last bolt I have to do to finish all up replacement parts
> for the steering and suspension. And then I will be so happy to have all
> that work done.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> Gerard Hickey / WTØF IRLP:3067/Echolink:529661
> hickey@kinetic-compute.com DMR: 3102272
> 425-395-4554
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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jesse farr, soddy tn USA '74 Canyonlands 260
Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349616 is a reply to message #349555] Thu, 24 October 2019 12:57 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gerard Hickey is currently offline  Gerard Hickey   United States
Messages: 53
Registered: June 2019
Karma: 1
Member
Thank you everyone that provided ideas and wisdom.

Last night I was able to get the bolt out and replace the bellcrank.
Yea!!!!  Super genius about removing the wheel and the liner. That made
things easy with a lot more room to work with. I did get some
penetrating oil from O'Reilly's and applied that also. I am sure that it
helped, but once I got the breaker bar on there with the 4 foot pipe
that I had the bolt finally cried mercy and released.

I did have a problem for quite a while trying to get the bellcrank
separated from the intermediate rod. Lots of pounding trying to get that
tapered bolt out, but then I remembered that I had a pickle fork. Put
that in and then a few good strikes with the hammer and it separated.

Thank you again for everyone's help and suggestions.

--
Gerard Hickey / WTØF IRLP:3067/Echolink:529661
hickey@kinetic-compute.com DMR: 3102272
425-395-4554

On 10/23/19 4:22 AM, Charles Boyd via Gmclist wrote:
> Sir, I believe you are working on the relay lever. Possibly short bursts from a 1/2" air gun will work but you do need a 1/2" air line and 120 lb of
> air. I do have a1" gun and it works. A 3/4 drive socket with a pull handle and 4' extension bar might work if you can get the right combination of
> extensions and room after removing the Wheel and liner.

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Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349679 is a reply to message #349616] Sat, 26 October 2019 12:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
midlf is currently offline  midlf   United States
Messages: 2212
Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
Karma: 1
Senior Member
Pay attention to the torque spec for tightening that bolt. Make sure you get full torque. Having that bolt loosen up will not make for a good day. If the steering gets a little sloppy check that bolt.

Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
Re: [GMCnet] Bolt holding belcrank [message #349682 is a reply to message #349679] Sat, 26 October 2019 15:07 Go to previous message
jimk is currently offline  jimk   United States
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
Senior Member
Use some Blue Loc tite

On Sat, Oct 26, 2019 at 10:22 AM Steve Southworth via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:

> Pay attention to the torque spec for tightening that bolt. Make sure you
> get full torque. Having that bolt loosen up will not make for a good day.
> If the steering gets a little sloppy check that bolt.
> --
> Steve Southworth
> 1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
> 1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
> Palmyra WI
>
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--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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