| Front Entry Door [message #348924] |
Sat, 05 October 2019 07:57  |
tgeiger
Messages: 518
Registered: February 2006
Location: kansas city
Karma: -1
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So awhile back I went thru a proceedure to basically re-lube the latching mechanism to great result in opening the door from the inside. Works great now. Used a product they recommended at O'Reilly's called "Free All" and after a day of that stuff soaking in it works great now. Thanks to you guys!
Now I have to get the door to seal better. Seeing gaps at the bottom and when we camp last werkend and it was raining hard, I saw water coming in from the top of the door so its not sealed all around. I did see a write up on making sure was latching on a second stage position of the latch which apparently pulled the door tighter to the seals. Wanted to do that before I started recurving proceedures. First of all, how do I verify if my door is or isn't hitting this second latch position?
Thanks,
Tom
76 Eleganza 2
Kansas City
Tom Geiger
76 Eleganza II
KCMO
[Updated on: Sat, 05 October 2019 07:59] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Front Entry Door [message #348931 is a reply to message #348924] |
Sat, 05 October 2019 11:05  |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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With the door open use a large punch to engage the latch cogs and close the
latch with the punch. There should be two distinct stopping points on the
way to
Fully latched. The second one when the latch has wrapped all the way around
your punch is the second one.
Ps. Sometimes you need to move the door strike closer to the latch to get
the second click which is not always intuitive when you are trying to get
the door tighter.
Sully
Bellevue wa
On Sat, Oct 5, 2019 at 5:58 AM tom geiger via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> So awhile back I went thru a proceedure to basically re-lube the latching
> mechanism to great result in opening the door from the inside. Works great
> now. Used a product they recommended at O'Reilly's called "Free All" and
> after a day of that stuff soaking in it works great now. Thanks to you guys!
>
> Now I have to get the door to seal better. Seeing gaps at the bottom and
> when we camp last werkend and it was raining hard, I saw water coming in
> from
> the top of the door so its not sealed all around. I did see a write up on
> making sure was latching on a second stage position of the latch which
> apparently pulled the door tighter to the seals. Wanted to do that before
> I started recurving proceedures. First of all, how do I verify if my door is
> or isn't hitting this second latch position?
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: Front Entry Door [message #348932 is a reply to message #348924] |
Sat, 05 October 2019 11:12 |
MikeB
Messages: 133
Registered: December 2018
Location: South Bama
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Tom,
I'm not an expert by any means and I'm on the road heading home with a door that needs a lot of love. I can lightly close my door and it will latch enough to lock on first stage latching. That leaves the door edge (in the latch area) sticking out past the body edge. It will also leave a gap at top big enough to see light.
If I give it a firm close (a slam) it will latch the door tight with water and wind proof sealing. It will also inset the door edge about 1/8" into body lines at the door latch area of the door. Obviously I need to do a lot of adjusting.
So I'm guessing you should be able to get a first latching by gently closing. After unlatching try a harder firm close from outside pushing near the latch edge of door and see if there is a difference in door position.
There's probably a less Neanderthal way of doing it but for that you'll have to wait on the experts.
M Beam
75’ Avion
TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
Zuki Sidekick,
Dozier Al
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| Re: Front Entry Door [message #348933 is a reply to message #348924] |
Sat, 05 October 2019 11:55 |
winter
Messages: 247
Registered: September 2007
Location: MPLS MN
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Be sure you aren't a victim of middle age spread. Look at the seam between the door and the vacuum cabinet. There shouldn't be a gap there. If there is, the striker isn't rigid and the whole wall moves when you try to shut the door. The fix is to tie the strike plate to the cabinet with a plate behind the wall. Made mine work much better.
Jerrod Winter
1977 Palm Beach
Green Jelly Bean
Twin Cities, Minnesota
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