| Few more pics of progress on the Murray Mansion [message #236536] |
Sat, 18 January 2014 16:03  |
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RF_Burns
Messages: 2277
Registered: June 2008
Location: S. Ontario, Canada
Karma: 3
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Sheeting is on, shingling is started. Next is the windows and doors.
Discussion with builder today was should I bump up the floor thickness from 4" of concrete to 5". Floor will have 6" mesh re-enforcing and rebar at the overhead doors.
It will also have in-floor heat so it also sits on 2" foam insulation.
I'm saying yes for the extra maybe $1k... but I'm already over budget.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6483-the-murray-gets-a-home.html
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
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| Re: Few more pics of progress on the Murray Mansion [message #236538 is a reply to message #236536] |
Sat, 18 January 2014 16:22  |
rcjordan
Messages: 1913
Registered: October 2012
Location: Elizabeth City, North Car...
Karma: 1
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>over budget
Here's a dirt-cheap tip for heavy work areas:
Make a couple of tie-down pockets in the slab by just cutting and fitting a standing sleeve of 4" plastic pipe around some of the rebar. Flush them with the slab surface and be sure to pack them before the pour to keep them open. These come in handy for chaining a tipsy engine lift down or having somewhere to attach a come-along to pull against, say, a chassis. We set my friend's garage up with 4, he loves 'em. I got the idea from an old frams-straighten shop I used to visit as a teenager --except they had embedded rails, too. Free or nearly free.
The other tip is to put plenty of empty "future use" electrical boxes in the wall and just stub them into the attic with conduit. I like 2-gang deep boxes and 3/4" conduit. If you use pvc, it should be under $10 per stub-up. If you use just ONE of them in the future, you'll get your money back.
SOLD 77 Royale Coachmen Side Dry Bath
76 Birchaven Coachmen Side Wet Bath
76 Eleganza
Elizabeth City, NC
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| Re: [GMCnet] Few more pics of progress on the Murray Mansion [message #236543 is a reply to message #236538] |
Sat, 18 January 2014 17:09 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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RC,
These are both great ideas and my personal experience in 1985 with the second was when I was restoring the 1876 town house I live
here in Sydney (Paddington) I had the electrician put one power point in each wall and two if there was a couch on that wall.
He said; "they'll cost you $35 each plus the wire!" I responded with; "how much to come back after the place is finished to add
them?" He put in ALL the ones I wanted!
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: RC Jordan
>over budget
Here's a dirt-cheap tip for heavy work areas:
Make a couple of tie-down pockets in the slab by just cutting and fitting a standing sleeve of 4" plastic pipe around some of the
rebar. Flush them with the slab surface and be sure to pack them before the pour to keep them open. These come in handy for
chaining a tipsy engine lift down or having somewhere to attach a come-along to pull against, say, a chassis. We set my friend's
garage up with 4, he loves 'em. I got the idea from an old frams-straighten shop I used to visit as a teenager --except they had
embedded rails, too. Free or nearly free.
The other tip is to put plenty of empty "future use" electrical boxes in the wall and just stub them into the attic with conduit. I
like 2-gang deep boxes and 3/4" conduit. If you use pvc, it should be under $10 per stub-up. If you use just ONE of them in the
future, you'll get your money back.
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: Few more pics of progress on the Murray Mansion [message #236550 is a reply to message #236536] |
Sat, 18 January 2014 18:11 |
Ultravan Owners
Messages: 443
Registered: March 2013
Karma: 0
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I too like these ideas. Thank you for sharing them.
I also like the idea of having LED lights in the floor located in the middle of your lift area.
I posted a link to some pictures, in the new garage thread on here. If you can not find it let me know and I will post it here.
It showed how this idea turned out for a guy who this did it on another site. He even posted a picture s with the lights on and what it looked like under a car on the lift.
It made a big difference. Plus you did not have to hold a drop light in your hand.
Tony (Ontario Canada)
Marie and I are blessed to have had a 2nd chance to buy our farm.
Still hoping and more importantly praying to be able to build a garage.
Our 1970 Ultravan #520 has an Olds Toronado 455 in back.
[Updated on: Sat, 18 January 2014 18:11] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Few more pics of progress on the Murray Mansion [message #236551 is a reply to message #236536] |
Sat, 18 January 2014 18:25 |
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Richard RV
Messages: 631
Registered: July 2012
Location: Full-timer for 12 years, ...
Karma: -17
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Garage-mahal. I like it!
6" wherever the coach will be. Options included (past tense appropriate?), full 6" slab, haunched slab at Murray side, slab haunched at tire paths only.
Mesh is a waste of money. It is never set correctly and contrary to popular opinion it doesn't prevent a slab from cracking.
Rebar in a 4" slab is also problematic. It is difficult to locate correctly in the center of the slab. I'm not sure how your code reads for a garage slab on insulation. The codes I'm familiar with require 3" of concrete cover for rebar embedded in a slab on grade, so a 4" slab wouldn't comply.
The only place I would like to see rebar is in the footings and at the garage door openings (with 3" of concrete cover minimum or epoxy-coated rebar).
Adding glass fiber to the concrete while it's in the truck would be the biggest bang for your buck, though the concrete guy will probably mention that it's tougher to finish, and it is, but just marginally.
Saw-cutting control joints into the slab while it's still fresh still allow the slab to crack, as it inevitably will, and put the cracks where you want them.
BTW, in construction, from the contractor's perspective, there is no such thing as over budget. There's just under-funded. 
Richard
'77 Birchaven TZE...777;
'76 Palm Beach under construction;
‘76 Edgemont waiting its turn
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| Re: [GMCnet] Few more pics of progress on the Murray Mansion [message #236604 is a reply to message #236536] |
Sun, 19 January 2014 09:32 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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That's little enough to pay for more capacity if you can afford. I built one at our first house, 20x30 monopour. I made it 6" with 6x6 welded wire reinforcement, and 18" perimeter footing with 3/8 rebar in the footings. Current owner parks his D9 Cat in there without cracks or problems 40 years later. I think I'll add one of the tin shelters by pouring a couple of corners on my driveway pad. I can do a 20x30 for not a lot of money using the existing pad.
--johnny
________________________________
From: Bruce Hislop <bruce@perthcomm.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 5:03 PM
Subject: [GMCnet] Few more pics of progress on the Murray Mansion
Sheeting is on, shingling is started. Next is the windows and doors.
Discussion with builder today was should I bump up the floor thickness from 4" of concrete to 5". Floor will have 6" mesh re-enforcing and rebar at the overhead doors.
It will also have in-floor heat so it also sits on 2" foam insulation.
I'm saying yes for the extra maybe $1k... but I'm already over budget.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6483-the-murray-gets-a-home.html
--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
Hubler 1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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